Tuesday, November 20

Beach outside our condo on Hutchinson Island - Jensen Beach, FL

A few closing "factoids" about The Great Loop:
White Label travelled about 6,354 miles over 120 days on the water.  We passed through 152 locks,
 2 countries (U.S.A. & Canada),  2 provinces (Quebec & Ontario), 19 states (Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware,  New Jersey, New York, Rhode Island, Connecticut, Michigan, Wisconsin, Illinois, Missouri, Tennessee,  Kentucky, Mississippi, Alabama)
and more lakes & rivers than we could keep track of.  Including return trips to Iowa & Colorado, our sojourn took 232 days in total and more gas than you want to know.
The Great Loop was truly an experience of a lifetime.  We knew it would be both challenging and fun - it far exceeded our expectations.
In closing & taking liberty with the Jimmy Buffet song "Changes in Lattitudes, Changes in Attitudes"  ......... "Reading the postings in White Label Sojourns reminds us of the places we've been.  Visions of good times that brought so much pleasure, makes us want to go back again.  But yesterday's over our shoulders, so we can't look back for too long.  There's just too much to see waiting in front of us and we known that we just can't go wrong .......... With these changes in latitudes, changes in attitudes nothing remains quite the same - with all of our running and all of our cunning - if we couldn't laugh we just would go insane" ......  Being Loopers was a blast ................. what's next?

       

Monday, November 19

Crossing our wake & completing the Great Loop

Familiar cruising ground - Stuart, FL.

Caloosahatchee Canal

The Okeechobee Waterway is considered by many to be the dividing line between Central Florida and South Florida.  This is where you start to see greater changes in the climate and vegetation.  Opened in 1937, the Waterway offers a chance to see rural Florida.  The shores are dotted with sleepy
towns, ranches, marinas and homesites interspersed with moss-hung wilderness.  For the boater, the Okeechobee Waterway and Lake Okeechobee provide quite a contrast from the busy coastal passages.
Besides the tranquility of Florida's hearthand, it is also a tremendously efficient route from the west to east coast of Florida, the only alternative being the long trek down and around the Keys.  The Okeechobee Waterway is 154 statute miles from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic Ocean.
It can be divided into three distinct sections:  1) Down the Caloosahatchee River and through the Caloosahatchee Canal to Clewiston  2) Lake Okeechobee 3) St. Lucie Canal to the South Fork of the St. Lucie River
The most direct route across Lake Okeechobee is an open-water 39 statute mile crossing, in 8 1/2 ft.
controlling depths.  The water level in Lake Okeechobee is higher than anywhere on the Gulf ICW or Atlantic Ocean.  Whether you are headed west or east, you ascend through the locks to Lake Okeechobee, then descend after you leave.  It is the second-largest freshwater lake located wholly in the United States (after Lake Michigan).  The Waterway has five locks and more than 20 bridges, ranging from electric-controlled to hand-operated.  We have made this crossing several times and this one was a "no-brainer".
It seems ironic that we would be spending our final day of The Great Loop on this particular

Sunrise - Caloosahatchee River

Waterway.  Although it is pleasant enough, it just doesn't compare to the many other amazing places and scenery that we have encountered along the way.  On the other hand, maybe it is an appropriate transition to the reality "that all good things must come to an end".
After eight hours we entered the Four Corners where the ICW intersects the St. Lucie River in Stuart, FL.  We were back in familiar territory.  Turning north onto the ICW we had about ten miles to reach the Nettles Island Marina - home port to the White Label.  At 3:20 pm we crossed our wake and had officially completed The Great Loop.

Sunday, November 18

Red sky at night, sailors delight ...... City of Fort Meyers Yacht Basin

Our final day of cruising the Gulf Waters would be a short hop over to the Caloosahatchee River and the beginning of the Okeechobee Waterway.  It was a beautiful South Florida morning and not knowing when we would have the opportunity to return to the Gulf Coast again, we had to have one more beach fix.

South Seas Island Marina - Captiva Island

At the northern tip of Captiva, along Redfish Pass, we hit the jackpot.  It was a beachcombers paradise ........ waves & waves of shells were rolling onto the beach....... fighting couch, whelks, paper figs and cat's eyes.  Although we do not own one, we now understand why all the tourist shops on the island sell shell nets.
By early afternoon we were underway - there was lots of activity on the Waterway.  Many yacht clubs organize flotillas, an easy thing to do in this area as there are many interesting stops to be made in close proximity to each other.  From sailboats to yachts, sportfish to runabouts, it was a great afternoon for boating.
We motored up the Caloosahatchee River about ten miles to the City of Fort Meyers Yacht Basin, located in the heart of downtown.  Although pretty quiet on a Sunday night, we enjoyed a stroll through the nicely restored Fort Meyers Downtown and Waterfront District.  Returning to the boat we noticed a red sky ........ "red sky at night, sailors delight" ....... good thing as we have a long day ahead of us on Monday.

Saturday, November 17

Lovegrove Gallery - Matlacha

Coconut postcards - Lovegrove Gallery - Matlacha

Local color - Bokeelia - Pine Island

Preparing for our Great Loop Cruise, I had read an article about Florida's secret islands, one of them being Matlacha/Pine Island.  We had tried to reach Matlacha by boat on Friday, but had to turn back when in the middle of the marked channel we ran aground with depths dropping to one and a half feet.  Instead we rented a car for the day and drove by land to explore this area.
Matlacha is located on an islet west of Fort Meyers and is connected to the mainland by the "fishingest bridge in the U.S.A." over Matlacha Pass.  It welcomes visitors with creative art galleries and shops, while retaining the simplicity of a quiet fishing village.  In our humble opinion, it did not have much to offer, with the exception of the Lovegrove Gallery & Gardens.  It is a throwback to the Hippie days with artist Leoma Lovegrove's vibrant paintings covering every surface.  We were amused by her coconut postcards (yes, she really will mail them for you) and the totem poles.
We continued on Route 78 to Pine Island, reputed to be a slice of Old Florida - soon discovering that this did not necessarily mean charming.  Instead the route was mostly lined with working orchards, palm tree nuseries, mobile parks and bad housing developments.  The town of Bokeelia at the far northern tip of the island had some points of interest and might appeal to anyone wanting to get away from it all.

Running path - South Seas Island Resort

Returning to South Seas Island Resort mid afternoon we headed for the beach which was alive with activity - sun worshipers, families and lots of shore birds .............. but virtually no shells ......... and this is billed as the best shelling on the Gulf Coast ....
well, not so today!

Friday, November 16

"Welcoming committee" - entering South Seas Island Marina

$50,000 of sign $1 bills on Cabbage Key Inn walls & ceiling

Lunch at Cabbage Key Inn

View from Cabbage Key Inn

Today's cruise of the GIWW was liberally dotted with small islands and protected from the open Gulf by a string of barrier islands.  Many of the small islands are part of the Pine Island National Wildlife Refuge and are closed to all public access to protect the wildlife.
Cayo Costa (translated as "Coastal Key") is a six mile long barrier island that is almost-uninhabited and is accessible only by boat.  Normally we would make a stop at the Cayo Costa State Park which has a great bike path & lovely beach, but the day was overcast & cool - instead, we decided to make a lunch stop at the delightful Cabbage Key Inn.
For years, visiting fisherman passing to and from local tarpon-fishing hot spots have taken rest and refreshment here.  The story goes that to guarantee a cold beer on their return, they started the tradition of posting signed dollar bills on the bar and restaurant walls.  The accumulated currency has piled up dollars deep over every square inch of wall and ceiling space, now adding up to more than $50,000.
Opposite Cayo Costa on the GIWW we past the private island of Useppa.  This lovely, 100 acre island, accessible only by water, has a scattering of cottages and the original 1912 mansion now serves as the clubhouse & restaurant.  We had visited the island in 2005 right after it had taken a direct hit from Hurricane Charley - it was so sad to see the devastation.   Thankfully, it now appears to have fully recovered, and is classy enough to deny us landing rights.

We decided that a great way to be ending this amazing journey would be to spend a couple of nights at the South Seas Island Resort & Marina located on Captiva Island.  Considered one of the finest resorts on Florida's West Coast, it is an elegant and elaborate vacation complex with superb facilities for mariners.  We arrived late afternoon just in time for a quick bike ride into the charming village of Captiva, then returned to the marina to savor a superb dockside dinner at the Harbourside Bar & Grill.        

Thursday, November 15

 Shells found on Palm Island beach

"Florida sailing" - furled sails & under power

Leaving Sarasota Bay and cruising south on the GIWW it became immediately clear that this stretch of the Waterway would basically be a "real estate" tour.  The channel is relatively narrow and the homes lining the shore range from large estates to Florida flats.  There was a lot of "Florida sailing" going on (furled sails with the iron jenny fired up).  Although we had a short forty miles to our destination of Palm Island Resort and Marina in Cape Haze, it took about 2 1/2  hours due to all the go slow areas.

Palm Island beach

This resort & marina are a very popular stop along the GIWW and with good reason.  The marina located on the mainland is small with a nice pool, spa & club area which attracts lots of boating groups - today it was a Sea Ray group.  We looked a little out of place in the marina with our lone Pursuit.
We like this marina because of its proximity to Palm Island, a barrier island with access only by ferry.  The resort and island homes have an "Old Florida" style of architecture and the quiet beach, one of our favorites,
It is still off season and the island was very quiet, we had the beach virtually to ourselves.  After a two hour walk on the beach we left with a considerable collection of shells.

Wednesday, November 14

Rare Black Orchid - Shelby Botanical Gardens

Beautiful orchid - Shelby Botanical Gardens

"Olympic Hopefuls" - Bayfront Island Park

Marina Jack is located in the heart of downtown Sarasota.  The city has gone to great lengths to revive this area and it has paid off.  There is a thriving Art district and the main street is lined with specialty dining and retail establishments.  Along the Gulf is the Bayfront Island Park featuring a popular fitness path lined with sculpture & great views of the water. 
Jeff Nicholas kindly invited Charlie, along with Grover Windsor,  to join him for the Wednesday afternoon E-scow races.  Charlie reported that his skippering in the first race led to a really bad result after he hit the windward mark.  It was followed by a near win in his second attempt at driving.  Jeff was competitive in all four races at the helm.  Getting six good races on Sarasota Bay was a real treat for any Midwest sailor.
I spent a very enjoyable afternoon at the Marie Shelby Botanical Gardens.  It is an estate garden that specializes in studying and conserving tropical plants - mainly epiphytes.  (Plants that grow above ground, supported by another plant or object and deriving its nutrients & water from rain, the air and dust.)  Many rare and beautiful orchids were showcased throughout the tropical displays.

Skipper Charlie on Jeff's e-scow - Sarasota Bay

A big thanks again to Jeff & JoAnn and Grover & Polina for their wonderful hospitality - we thoroughly enjoyed our time in Sarasota!

Tuesday, November 13

A friendly gathering on MM 15 - Sarasota Bay

GIWW - Ana Maria Sound - inside  Long Boat Key

A leisurely morning was had by all .......... I took a morning run through the Bayside Park while Charlie walked down to the neighborhood French bistro where he enjoyed some of the best French toast ever....  a real treat compared to his normal yogurt & blueberry start to the day.
At breakfast he checked an e-mail from the Great Loop Association which posted warnings about conditions in the upper Gulf, i.e. The Big Bend (The Armpit) where we experienced big seas on Sat.  One of the
postings included the following:
" Yesterday found the Gulf waters unsettled.  That is another word for crappy and blowing like stink.  Nautical terms are so precise and descriptive.....Tomorrow morning (Today) get off the Gulf ASAP as it will turn nasty...After today and tonight, I don't see another weather window (for crossing) for quite a few days."  We wonder if there is such a thing as a" pleasant crossing" of The (Armpit)  Big Bend?
After a walk on the beach, we left the Bradenton Beach Marina heading toward Sarasota.  The GIWW runs along the inside shore of Longboat Key and then enters Sarasota Bay.  Although much of the water appears to be wide open, it is extremely important to stay within the channel markers do to the shoal water.  It was a short 14 mile hop to the downtown Sarasota's  Marina Jack.

Al fresco dining - St Armands Circle - Jeff & JoAnn and Grover & Polina

We were excited to be meeting up with Jeff & JoAnn Nicholas and Grover & Polina Windsor, friends from the Clear Lake Yacht Club who have winter homes in this area.  After cocktails on the White Label, we relished a superior al fresco dinner on St. Armands Circle.  Located on St. Armands Key which is removed from the mainland by two bridges over Sarasota Bay, it is an upscale shopping & dining center located on St. Armands Key.  It was a great evening!

Monday, November 12

Ana Maria bungalow

Sand Bar - Ana Maria

Beach side motel - Ana Maria Island

Bike path - Coquina Beach Park

It was a gorgeous Florida day - temps reaching the low 80s - now that's more like it!
After a short 25 mile jaunt on the GIWW we arrived at the Bradenton Beach Marina on Ana Maria Island.  This island lies between Tampa Bay on the north and Sarasota Bay on the south.  It is approximately 1/2 mile wide and 7 miles long.
The island although largely developed retains an Old Florida charm.  There is a wonderful bike path on the southern end of the island that runs along the Gulf through the Coquina Beach Park.   The neighborhoods are filled with delightful bungalows and the storefronts and restaurants are  "local color".  We biked to the northern end of the island - home to the small village of Ana Maria - where we treated ourselves to a beach side lunch. 
The heart of Bradenton Beach is Bridge Street.   Though only a few blocks wide the shops and restaurants are charming and City Pier at the end of the street is a nice place to see the inland.

Southern tip - Ana Maria Island

Sunday, November 11

Sun setting over the GIWW - St Petersburg

The GIWW (Gulf Intracoastal Water Way) starts back up again in Tarpon Springs and we headed down the channel for the Clearwater/St. Petersburg area.  By late morning we pulled into the marina at Caladesi Island and headed for the beach which is considered one of the best in the United States.  Because the island is accessible only by boat, even on this holiday weekend (Veteran's Day), the beach was relatively quiet.  We had a relaxing 1 1/2 hour walk on the beach finding several sand dollars & three Conch shells.
Passing down the GIWW through Clearwater & St. Petersburg it becomes clear that this is a boat-minded community.  The channel was bustling with boat traffic & why not ........ it was a beautiful Florida afternoon.  The temperatures were at least 10 degrees warmer than those in the Panhandle - gone was the fleece - we are back to "swimsuit territory".

Caladesi Island beach

The only glitch in our day was trying to find a marina in the Pass-a-Grill area of the Waterway.  Several of them would either not hail our call or did not have transient slips.  The Loggerhead Club & Marina agreed to take us, but we got hopelessly lost trying to find it (there are many canals and channels veering off of the GIWW & very little signage).  The sun was setting when we finally stumbled upon the very narrow Frenchman Creek channel leading to the marina.  We have traveled over 6,000 miles so far on the Loop & have not been this lost ........... kinda embarrassing!

Saturday, November 10

Shirt on Dodecanese Blvd -  Tarpon Springs

Sponge boat - Tarpon Springs

Anclote River - Tarpon Springs

5 ft. seas breaking over the bow

Apalachicola oyster boats

This next section of our Gulf cruise is known as The Big Bend/Nature Coast.  Charlie refers to it as
"the armpit" or "the crotch".  Needless to say he does not have a very favorable view of the area and was anxious to get this day behind us.
Because there is no protected ICW here, all passages are done in the open Gulf waters.  This means tht you need to have a favorable weather forecast (winds 10-15 knots or less, out of the east, northeast or southeast) for the seas to be 2 to 3 feet or less.  The most direct route from Apalatchicola is 175 miles.
The entire coastline of the Big Bend is shoaled for about 15 miles out into the Gulf of Mexico making any access to land a challenge.  Most of the coast is low and marshy and the countryside undeveloped.  There are only three potential port of call for the entire area, which is why making the crossing in favorable weather is so important.
We were out of the marina by 7:00 am and soon after entering Apalachicola Bay passed a couple of oyster boats returning with their catch of the day.  Entering into the Gulf of Mexico the seas were running 2 to 3 feet as expected and the ride was a little choppy.  About 50 miles into the crossing & approximately 30 miles off shore the winds picked up and the seas built to 4-5 feet.  Our boat is very sea worthy, still there is just so much pounding these "old bodies" can take!
Luckily after four hours of this (approximately 100 miles) things started to settle down and by the time we reached Tarpon Springs the seas were calm.  It had been an interesting day of cruising -
pretty crazy how quickly conditions can & often do change on the water.
Tarpon Springs is located on the Anclote River where it intersects with the Gulf of Mexico.  It is hailed as the "Sponge Capital of the World" with the sponge docks and adjacent Dodecanese Boulevard paying tribute to the legacy of the original Greek sponge divers.

Scipio Creek - Apalatchicola

Today the boulevard is lined with many Greek restaurants, bakeries and import shops.  The food is to die for & the atmosphere lively - it was the perfect ending to a somewhat long & challenging day.

Friday, November 9

Scipio Creek - Apalachicola

On the waterfront - Apalachicola

Bar at the Gibson Inn

Gibson Inn - Apalachicola

The start of our day was a short bike tour of historic St. Andrews - a section of Panama City that was highly recommended by a "friendly local" that we had met while swimming in the Waterfall Cove on Lake Pickwick earlier in the summer.  He insisted that we should not miss this spot ......... well we could have!
Next we headed down East Bay toward the Wetappo Creek.  It was fun cruising at full throttle throuogh the mirror like waters.  The Wetappo Creek and Apalachicola River took many bends & curves through the surrounding cypress marsh.  A wonderful reminder that not all of Florida has been wildly overbuilt.
Today's cruise completed the Panhandle GIWW - the section of the Waterway from Pensacola to Apalachicola covering around 200 miles of pleasant inside cruising.  It meanders through passages of modern development, forests of deciduous trees, cypress swamps and bayous.  Narrow channels connect big, clear, open bays and sounds with barrier islands protecting this entire area.
Mid afternoon we arrived in the charming village of Apalachicola, renowned for its local oysters caught fresh from the bay's beds.  Charlie was in heaven - I even found the fried variety to be delicious.  It is also home to Dr. John Gorrie who in the 1830s invented a machine that made ice.  While the invention was originally designed to help yellow fever patients, it changed the world by making southern climates more habitable and Happy Hour happier.

Floats at the Tin Shop - Apalachicola

A walk around town is a trip back in time.  This river town has been wonderfully restored and showcases many B&Bs, art galleries and oyster establishments.  We would have enjoyed spending more time here, but with a small weather window to complete the 170 mile offshore run ahead of us we decided to push forward.

Thursday, November 8

Bay Point Marina

Sand dunes along  the Grand Canyon

"Grand Canyon"

The Baytowne Marina at Sandestin is located at about the half way point of the 30 nautical mile long and 3-5 nautical mile wide Choctawhatchee Bay.  As we cruised this wide open area Charlie commented on what a great place it would be for a sailing regatta ......... once a sailor, always a sailor.
The next stretch of the GIWW is known as the "Grand Canyon", a 16-mile long land cut through groves of loblolly pines and some interesting sand dunes.  This area is at least a half mile from the Gulf coast and we were surprised to see such natural sand formations that far inland.
Our final destination was St. Andrews Bay - a deep, almost land locked body of water -  home to Panama City.  It is considered one of Florida's finest bays with the Navy operating a lab on the west end, where it is said that Navy SEALs do some of their most serious training.
The Grand Lagoon at Panama City Beach hosts a number of marinas, including the Bay Point Marina

Choctawhatchee Bay

which was filled almost to capacity with an impressive fleet of large pleasure craft - mainly sport fish.  It was quite clear that two of the most popular pastimes at this complex are fishing & golf.  We enjoyed an afternoon of biking around the property and all too soon the sun was setting over the marina - it was only 5:00 pm.  The days are getting to be way too short!

Wednesday, November 7

The sand is perfect for a sand castle

We woke up to the news of Obama's re-election .................. bummer!  Charlie took the news badly & I told him to get over it  .......... at least until we finish the Loop ............ this boat is too small for all those negative vibes!
We cruised the GIWW a short sixteen miles to the Sandestin's Baytowne Marina, located in the heart of The Emerald Coast.  It was a smooth ride until we entered the Choctawhatchee Bay where the cool breeze caused the water to white cap. 

Beach at Sandestin - Emerald Coast

The resort had five miles of scenic bike paths wondering around four different golf courses & the
 beach with its emerald colored waters was lovely.    A nice place other than the fact the weather is cool - highs 64 - lows 39.

Tuesday, November 6

The Narrows - Santa Rosa Island - hurricane damaged pines

We left the Sportsman Marina mid morning for the 70 mile cruise of the GIWW (Gulf Intracoastal Water Way) to Fort Walton Beach.  We crossed Pensacola Bay, one of Florida's largest and safest harbors.  It has served as a heavy weather refuge for commercial and Navy ships, as well as for smaller craft.
The waterway then enters the Santa Rosa Sound.  There are an abundance of homes on the mainland, with scattered beach development dotting the Santa Rosa Island side.  Damage done to the Australian
pines by Hurricane Ivan in 2004 is still evident on the barrier island.  We soon entered a section known as The Narrows.  It is a well-marked channel that twists back and forth through the shallows for about six nautical miles.

Historic Fort Walton Beach - Tatoo Shop

This area of the Gulf is quite populated and somewhat chaotic on shore.  We were taken aback at how little boat traffic we saw today.......it is good to be back on the water.   We arrived in Fort Walton Beach in time for a leisurely bike ride.  Although we enjoyed the exercise,  the community left something to be desired.  The "Historic Downtown" was full of tattoo & tacky tourist shops.