Friday, April 13

Ocracoke  "local color"

S. MacNally's a local favorite

Today we cruised 50 miles to Ocracoke Island, the Outer Banks.

Still together - 2wks & counting

The ICW crosses through Pamlico Sound, the second largest ICW estuary after the Chesapeake Bay and it deserves the utmost respect.  It can be one of the roughest bodies of water on the entire ICW.  Luckily, we crossed through it (20 miles off shore) to reach the Outer Banks in very calm conditions.  Timing is everything.
Ocracoke Island strives to preserve its small-town atmosphere, and by choice, remains much as it was 50 years ago.  "Local color" best describes the laid back establishments that line Irvin Garrish Hwy.  Bicyclists, golf carts & motor vehicles all respectably share this roadway.  We enjoyed a long walk on
yet another amazing beach.  S. MacNally's, located harborside, is a popular watering hole and could possibly be our favorite so far - great bar, great local fish straight from the boat.

Thursday April 12

Historic Beaufort home

Kathy being a tourist

We awoke this morning to 40 degree temps.............. burrrrr!  We cruised 110 miles to our destination, Beaufort, N.C.
  The town dates back to 1722 and has many historical homes and buildings that have been
immaculately restored.  Most are privately owned and occupied, the oldest one we saw dated back to

Barge traffic on the ICW

1730.  After living in a hundred year old home for fifteen years, we have great respect for the commitment these individuals have to honoring and preserving the past.  This community benefits greatly because of their efforts.

Wednesday April 11

View from bicycle path

Baldy Lighthouse 1817

Today we cruised 50 miles to Bald Head Island.  It's location is a two-mile diversion off the ICW .  Our guide book says it best and I quote "Its remoteness (accessible only by water), its 14 miles of wide, unspoiled beaches and magnificent dunes, and its oak, pine and palm forests - juxtaposed against meandering creeks through inland seas of waving marsh grass, monitored by flocks of white ibis - conspire to make the pristine beauty of this natural barrier island stand out.  There is a place for man here, too, in  a low-density, revisionist version of Cape Cod or Martha's Vineyard."  These people have big wallets and great taste - Charlie commented that the island's grocery store had better wine than most good liquor stores.  No cars are allowed,  only bicycles & golf carts.

Bald Head Island beach

We spent the afternoon biking the entire island, walking the beach and climbing the historic "Baldy" Lighthouse. 
What a day!

Tueday April 10

needed a bridge opening on this one

narrow stretch ICW

Today we cruised 95 miles to Myrtle Beach, S.C.  The ICW channel north of Charleston is among the straightest stretches along the entire ICW.  We continue to enjoy the beautiful Carolina low country.  It has been fun to watch the various species of birds, they are plentiful and find lots to eat in these waters.  One gets the feeling of being out in the middle of nowhere.
 About 40 miles north of Charleston we started to notice a change in the flora.  Palm trees & live oak began to give way to pines.  The docks along this stretch of the ICW are 500 to 600 feet long.

600 foot dock

 We are grateful that is not the case on Clear Lake.

Monday April 9

Husk

Waiting for lunch at Husk

Cemetery at the Circular Church

We are at the Charleston City Marina - home of the mega dock.  This dock is 1/4 mile long and we are just about the smallest vessel tied up to it.  It's not every morning that I can say that I jogged 1/2 mile of my run on a dock!
We spent the day bicycling through the Historic Downtown Charleston - admiring the antebellum streets and stunning architecture of the marketplace and many churches.  I talked Charlie into a horse drawn carriage tour of the area with the promise of lunch at Husk to follow.

mega dock - 1/4 mile long

 Husk was rated the best new restaurant in the country by Bon Appetit in 2011.  It specializes in fresh ingredients southern style - we were not disappointed.  A leisurely lunch on the second floor porch was the perfect way to spend the afternoon.  No wonder the Southerners are so cordial & laid back.  Off to Myrtle Beach, SC tomorrow.

Sunday April 8

Oops! Glad it's not our boat

Entering a narrow cut

Happy Easter!  It was a beautiful day to make the 104 mile run from Hilton Head to Charleston.  We left Shelter Harbor at 7:30 am (early for us).  We stopped along the way at Beaufort - a southern town with  an historic waterfront.  Beneath the shade of the live oak trees draped in moss we admired the charming homes & storefronts that have been beautifully restored - it was a pleasant morning stroll.
On one of the many sounds that we crossed the props of the White Label had to be cleared of dead reeds.  This is the time of year when the reeds begin to regrow and the dead ones form bogs in the middle of the waterways - one of them was unavoidable.  A quick shot of reverse cleared them and off we went.  The other interesting thing about this part of the world is the tides.  Water levels vary up to 8 feet every 12 hours.  In order for that much water to move from the ocean and back that quickly, high speed is required.  Waves are actually created by the tides and the afternoon breezes will blow spray from the top of them.  Can't remember that happening on Clear Lake ..........

Easter Living cross -Beaufort

Friday & Saturday April 6 & 7

Charlie's big find

Beach at Hilton Head

85 degrees turned to 60 degrees, sunshine turned to rain and the winds howled.  We were happy to have
our friends Jerry & Sue come to our rescue.  The Curries have been spending time on Hilton Head for years & know the island well.  Under their guidance we toured, visited their lovely home, met their friends, ran some much needed errands, shared some laughs and ate some amazing  food.  It was an awesome weekend!  By Saturday the skies had cleared and we enjoyed a beachfront lunch followed by a walk on the beach.

cocktails with the Curries

 Between the two of us we found nearly two doz. sand dollars and being the beach combers that we are, it was like winning the jackpot!