Wednesday, May 30

Big Chute Marine Railway - Breathtaking 57-foot vertical drop

This morning we crossed Lake Simcoe - 20 miles long and 16 miles wide - the largest lake on the Trent-Severn Waterway.  With a short chop it was an easy crossing and a taste of what will lie ahead for us once we leave this Waterway.
The final leg of the Trent-Severn Waterway is the Severn River.  The red & gray granite walls and out crops of the Canadian Shield become more prominent along this stretch.  It was interesting to see how people used these natural formations in their landscaping and the remote sections of this river were especially beautiful.
To many the biggest thrill of all on the Trent- Severn Waterway is the Big Chute marine railway.  At the Big Chute, water rushes down a long granite chute between the Upper Severn River and Glouster Pool.  Next to this, the Big Chute Railway lifts your vessel across land and down the chute on twin tracks.
Originally it was designed because there was a lack of concrete to build locks in this location and the railway was cheaper.

Severn River

This open-air carriage operates like a huge, partially submerged travel hoist.  You do not need ropes or lines and must remove all fenders from dangling over the side of the boat.  Driving onto the carriage and into the sling, the boat is soon floating over land - the seven-minute trip is fascinating!

Tuesday, May 29

Sunset - Kawartha Lakes - Trent/Severn Waterway

We burned up some gas today as we powered through this lake region.  House boating is very popular and thankfully we did not have to lock through with one.  We had been warned that often the operators are not very experienced & the boats themselves rather unresponsive ..... not a good combination.
The lakes today are wide open bodies of water similar to Midwestern lakes.  They just seem to go on and on.  At times it was hard to find the channel markers as they were far apart and often in the open water.

Rosedale Lock - highest point in the system

An interesting passage was the Trent Canal, a very long, shallow & narrow land cut through the Canadian Shield.  Through the clear water you could see the granite & basalt sides and bottom.  Luckily we did not have to pass any large boats along this stretch.

Trent Canal - land cut through Canadian Shield

Monday, May 28

He used to be a sailor

Top of the Lovesick Lock - #30

Top of Peterborough Lift looking down on twin pan

Finally there was a big WOW on the Trent/Severn Waterway at the Peterborough Lift Lock #21 ......  it is the world's highest hydraulic lift lock.  As we "floated" up the 65-foot vertical lift in a quick 90 seconds we felt like kids on a carnival ride!
When it opened in 1904, it was quite an amazing engineering feat ........ it still is today.  The lock works like a giant balance beam scale.  At the green light you enter a large rectangular chamber shaped like a huge sheet-cake pan.  Parallel to that chamber, but 65 feet up on a huge piston, is another chamber - a twin to yours.  There are 330,000 gallons of water that weigh 1,500 tons in each pan.  When the upper chamber is filled with an extra foot of water (1 ft. = 130 tons) the increased weight in the upper tank forces it to go down, while the lower tanks rises on its piston.  It does not matter how many or what size boats are in each pan, as the boats displace their own weight.  It is amazing, we were tempted to turn around and do it again.

Bottom of Peterborough Lift looking up

Soon it was back to a series of 10 normal size locks ......... each with a vertical rise of only 10-12 feet and taking about 12 minutes to lock through ........ after the "Big" one of the day, the thrill was gone.
By afternoon we had entered the Kawartha Lakes Chain, once known to the Indians as "happy lands and bright waters".  They stretch along the waterway in a series of long open passages.  We meandered through island lined channels and tree lined coves ....... we were back in God's Country.
One of the lakes was called Clear Lake ...... living up to its name in a big way.  The shores were lined with some very expensive real estate - obviously "the place to be" in this part of the world.
It was such a gorgeous afternoon that we decided to quit early and pulled up to the upper wall at the Lovesick Lock #30.  Said by many to be the prettiest lock on the Trent-Severn, it is situated between two islands on Lovesick Lake.  Surrounded by a natural preserve and many other tiny islands, it was the perfect spot to drop in our kayaks and later enjoy a lakeside dinner.

Sunday, May 27

Centennial Fountain geyser  at Peterborough - C.L. needs one

Low water at Healey Falls

From Campbellford to Peterborough we traveled 59 miles and went through 7 locks.
 Chatting with one of the lock tenders we were told that the water levels were extremely low and without more rain in the next two months the Trent- Severn Waterway might have to shut down.   At the Healey Falls Locks 15, 16 & 17 this was very evident.  The guide book recommends taking a short walk to Healey Falls for a photo op........ here we could see first hand just how low the water levels really are, making us think of the parallel situation in North Iowa. 
We left the Trent River and entered Rice Lake -  20 miles long and three miles wide, it is the second largest of the many interconnecting lakes on the Trent system.  The lake was a giant granary in Indian times and was named for the wild rice that once grew around its shores.
Next we traveled  20 miles on the Otonabee River to Peterborough.  Most of the people on the water were fishing and the locks had little to no traffic.......... by now we thought that the boat traffic would be picking up but it seems we are still ahead of the pack.  By July the Trent will be so busy that often there is a wait of 1 - 1 1/2 hours at each lock.  Today we locked through by ourselves, except for the pair of ducks that joined us.

2 ducks - our only lock companions

So far we are not terribly impressed with the Trent-Severn Waterway, which does not yet have the True North appeal of the Rideau.  We have been told the best is yet to come.

Saturday, May 26

Coming out of Ranney Falls Locks 11/12

Bottom of Ranney Falls Locks 11/12

Entrance to Trent-Severn Waterway

Today we left Kingston and headed out onto Lake Ontario.  It was great to open the throttle of the White Label on the perfectly calm water......... finally we would be making some headway on our journey.  We traveled eighty miles to Trenton, Ontario where we entered the Trent -Severn Waterway.  The Waterway was built in stages beginning in 1833 and completed 87 years later, in 1920.   Through a series of streams, rivers and lakes, it connects Lake Ontario to Georgian Bay/Lake Huron.  It is 240-miles long and has 44 locks - some of which are especially noteworthy.
Today's cruise would be in the "ok" category ...........  the highlight being the Ranney Falls Locks 11/12.
In these flight locks, you move out of the first one and directly into the next one after the gate opens.  There is a 48-foot rise and when you come out from "the hole" it is quite dramatic.   Passing through twelve locks and twenty- two miles into the Waterway we pulled up to the City Wall in Campbellford - not a terribly exciting place to be on a Saturday night (no music, nasty looking Chinese restaurants -which went unsampled-  but decent BBQ).......... oh well!

Sharing a breakfast croissant with our friends

Friday, May 25

Sailing canoes - Antique Boat Museum

Chris-Craft with fins - Antique Boat Museum

Lake home - Thousand Islands

Playhouse - Heart Island

Where the St. Lawrence River meets Lake Ontario is the cruising area known as The Thousand Islands.
Actually numbering 1800, they fill an area 15-miles wide at the Lake Ontario end, tapering to 5-miles over a downstream distance of about 50 miles.  These islands were once mountain peaks, with water depths between them changing  abruptly from more than 50-ft. to nothing.  Many of the smaller islands are privately owned, while others are very large and well developed. The real estate varies from modest cottages to large vacation estates.  Mother nature has blessed this entire region and once again we were in awe of the beautiful surroundings.  Several Canadians recommended that we take the time to tour two properties in The Thousand Islands - very different and equally interesting.

1.    The most famous of the palatial summer homes built in The Thousand Islands is the never- finished Boldt Castle on Heart Island.  It actually consists of seven structures the castle, entrance arch, the playhouse, the power house, the gazebo - all on Heart Island - and the yacht house on Wellesley Island.  Conceived by George Boldt (the premiere hotelier of the Guilded Age - owner of the Waldorf-Astoria & more), the castle on Heart Island was built as a gift to his wife, Louise, the love of his life. Sadly, four years into the construction of the castle,  she unexpectedly died at the age of 42.  George ordered all work  to immediately stop and he never returned.  The grounds and unfinished buildings feel into disrepair until the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority came to its rescue in 1977.  It continues to be a work in progress.  The property is magnificent and the views of the river are gorgeous - a living tribute to this romantic couple.

Boldt Castle

2.   In Clayton, New York, overlooking the St. Lawrence River is the Antique Boat Museum.  It displays the largest collection of antique and classic fresh water boats in North America.  Anyone who likes boats would love this place.  Showcased was an impressive collection of wooden speed boats (6 Hackercrafts), a silver Chris-Craft with fins (c. 1956-7),  mahogany cruisers from the 20s and 30s, skiffs, sailing canoes and a turn of the century house boat (105 ft. built by the aforementioned George Boldt). 

Thursday, May 24

Dinner entertainment

Harvesting the milfoil

After an early morning dip in Opinicon Lake we locked through Davis Lock and made our way to Jones Falls Locks 39-42.  This area, with a mile-long series of rapids and a 60-ft. elevation drop is considered one of the most impressive engineering feats on the canal.  A trail leads to the historic dam and Sweeney's House (a completely restored lock tender's house).  "C.D.H.A.Q." appears many times in the Sweeney Diary - it refers to his chaotic married life and means "Catherine Drunk.  Had a Quarrel."  Glad we have not been making these kind of entries in our blog!
We left the Lake Region and followed the Cataraqui River into Kingston.  The river was full of vast amounts of milfoil and we followed a narrow channel where it had been cleared (think milfoil harvester in Minnetonka or Pewaukee).
As you often do when traveling through the canals, you keep locking through with the same people.  This happened to us over the past two days ........ a pair of "Canadian Locals" who had the inside scoop on the region and could not have been nicer to us.  They were able to convince Charlie that we needed to make one more detour from our Great Loop Route and spend a couple of days in the Thousand Island cruising ground at the beginning of the St. Lawrence River. 
This would mean back tracking thirty miles each way and enduring some on-shore touring.
We spent the night in Gananoque, Ontario.  Once an important mill town, it is now the commercial and tourist center for the Canadian Thousand Islands.  The marina had both laundry and Internet, both of which have been in short supply as of late.

Cruising the channel - Rideau Canal

 The local Muskie Restaurant had both good food & entertainment ........... we bonded with Bob & his one man show.

Wednesday, May 23

Afternoon swim

Kayaking by Davis Lock

Lake Country - Rideau Canal

This morning we continued our journey through rural Ontario's farm country.  Once again it seemed we had the canal to ourselves.  Early on one of the dock tenders told us we would be approaching a large tour boat that was making a week long cruise of the Rideau Canal beginning in Kingston and ending in Ottawa. 
Smith Falls is the half way point of the canal.  As we began the climb up the modern Smith Falls 145ft. long hydraulic lock (it replaced a historic flight of three locks), with a vertical ascent of 26-feet, we saw the cruise ship tied to the city wall.  We would not have to worry about passing it on a narrow channel after all.  That ship and three other boats were the extent of the traffic we incurred in the locks.
Just past Smith Falls we entered the Lake Region of the canal.  WOW! We cannot even begin to describe the beauty of these interlocking, crystal clear, deep water lakes.  Our guide book perhaps says it best .......... "There is hardly a more pleasant journey that we could recommend than along this canal." 

Cruise boat on the Rideau Canal

The blue dock above the Davis Lock #38 provided the perfect opportunity to finally launch our kayaks and take a brief late afternoon swim in these pristine waters.  While taking in a gorgeous sunset over the wooded lake, we savored a BBQ dinner & cocktails from a picnic table on the dock .  This was one GREAT day!

Tuesday, May 22

Internet cafe - Merrickville, Ontario

Glass-like water reflection - Rideau Canal

The Rideau Canal opened in 1832 and today is considered a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). 
Conceived as a war-time supply route (War of 1812), it served as a major artery for regional commerce for several decades.  Today  only pleasure boats pass through this series of beautiful lakes and rivers connected by hand operated locks that remain true to their original design.  It is easy to see how these locks would have been perceived as engineering marvels in their day.
We left the urban setting of the nation's capital for rural Ontario.  Farms, pastures and forests line the marshland shores.  The mirror like water surface of the canal provides a stunning reflection of the clouds and lush green foliage. 
We have the canal to ourselves and as we approach each lock the gates are open and the lock tenders are awaiting our arrival.  Almost as good as traveling by private jet! 

Rural Ontario

With lots of go-slow and ten locks we only went about forty miles before tying up to the blue dock in Merrickville, Ontario.

Monday, May 21

Parliament Square - Ottawa

"Giant's Staircase" - Ottawa Staircase Locks 1-8

Jogging path - Chateau Montebello

Twenty miles up the Ottawa River lies the Canadian capital city of Ottawa.  Here we entered the Ottawa Staircase Locks 1-8.  This flight of eight locks provides a spectacular 79-foot total vertical rise to the entrance of the Rideau Canal.  They are sometimes called the Giant's Staircase and cut through the city by the Parliament Buildings.
 Many tourists lined both sides of the lock, it was our five minutes of celebrity.  We have now left Quebec and English once again is the official language, it was nice to once again easily communicate with people.   The ascent takes 90 minutes and there is no stopping once you have started these locks.
There were tie-up walls at the top of the locks providing easy access to the city sights.  We grabbed our bikes and headed out for a brief tour of Parliament Square & the Rideau Canal pedestrian/bike path.  It is a picturesque city with lots of parks and green space.
We enjoyed a leisurely cruise down the canal with many kayaks, canoes & dogs romping in the brisk waters.  We traveled fifty-two miles and passed through thirteen locks before calling it a day - back on the blue wall, but this time with electricity.

Sunday, May 20

The Great Room

Le Chateau Montebello

Talk about a picture perfect day .........
We were in the first flight of boats to enter the St. Anne de Bellevue Lock.  With a mere 3-foot vertical drop and a floating dock it was an easy lockage and we entered the Ottawa River.  This is a busy waterway that runs through two provinces - Quebec on the north and Ontario on the south.  It was a bit of a challenge as many of the channel markers were missing and depths can go from 100' to 3' in a matter of seconds.  There are two types of boaters:  those who have been aground and those who will go aground.  We belong to both groups.
The second lock of the day was the largest so far.  The Carillon Lock provides a 65-foot vertical lift with boaters tying up to a floating dock,  there is no line tending. 
After being on the blue dock the last two nights, a marina with electricity & hot water sounded good.  The marina at Le Chateau Montebello was calling us.  This lovely old property was owned by the Canadian Pacific Railroad and used as a Sportsmen's Club until 1971 when it was turned into a hotel.  It is a sister property to the Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City and claims to be the largest log cabin structure in the world.  It is north country accommodation at its best.  We walked the grounds and enjoyed both the ambience and great food in the dining room overlooking the grounds and the Ottawa

Carillon Lock - Ottawa River

River.

Saturday, May 19

St. Lawrence Commercial Lock

Commercial vessels - St. Lawrence

Opening in 1849, the St. Ours Canal is the final leg of a network that made navigation possible between the St. Lawrence River, Richelieu River, Lake Champlain and the Hudson River.  Through this network, Montreal was linked to New York City. 
Once inside the Saint Ours Lock, you tie up to a floating dock along the west wall instead of the lock walls.  This canal is much wider than the Chambly Canal and the channel is mostly well marked.
Traveling upstream on the St. Lawrence River the surface of the water was flat, still we lost about
two to three knots due to the current, which must be especially difficult (and painful) for sailboats.  The river itself is majestic, wide with high banks and more shoals that one can imagine.  It is easy to see how the early explorers might have believed that they had discovered the fabled Northwest Passage to the Orient.  Instead they got a shortcut to Duluth.
We almost sped through the two commercial locks on the St. Lawrence.  Priority is always given to the commercial traffic and there can be long delays.  We heard horror stories from a professional captain about waiting seven hours to get through just one of them.
Late afternoon we entered the Lac Saint-Louis, a major Montreal boating center.  There were many sailboats ( actually sailing in light air unlike their Florida counterparts) and too many crazed Viagra
boats.
At the entrance to the Ottawa River we tied up to the blue dock at St. Anne de Bellevue Lock.  The town has several restaurants and gift shops along the waterfront boardwalk. The Canadians are out in

Our favorite lock master - St. Ours Lock

full force - it is a three day holiday weekend called "Queen's Day"- whatever that means.

Friday, May 18

Dinner on the "blue wall" St. Ours Lock

Flight lock on the Chambly

There were three sailboats and four powerboats waiting for the bridge opening to the Chambly Canal
this morning.  It seems we were not the only ones ready to move on.  We also were not aware that priority is given to all boats located on the "blue wall".  In Canada boats are allowed to tie up to these walls on either side of the locks the night before so that the next day they will be the first to lock through.  Needless to say we had major delays to our start.
The fourteen mile long Chambly Canal opened to commercial traffic in 1843 and played a big role in the export of Canadian forest products to the United States.  This historic canal has changed little since its beginnings.  The locks are very small and hand operated by cranks.  Only two to three boats at a time can fit into them.
There are a number of rotating, rolling and drawing bridges along the canal.  It was interesting to pass through the stepped locks (five total that are about one city block in distance from one another).  The final three locks had a combined vertical lift of thirty five feet and are known as flight locks - once you enter a lock, you must complete the remaining two.
Although there were long delays getting into the locks, once inside they were remarkably efficient.  Luckily it was a beautiful day and the scenery engaging - many small villages and lots of people on the pedestrian/bike path that runs along the canal.
We left the Chambly Canal and entered the St. Ours Canal that will take us to the St. Lawrence River.  Along the channel a number of navigational aids which appear on the charts were not in the water as of now.   Gotta pay attention.

Hand operated lock on the Chambly Canal

Twelve hours from our start, above the St. Ours Lock, we tied up to the "blue wall".  (We've got this program figured out - #1 in the pecking order with three others boats tied up behind us for the 9:00 am opening.)

Thursday, May 17

Chambly Canal

Inspecting the lock

It was a sad day ......... Charlie had to give up the mini-van.
Our morning was spent tending to mundane things - cleaning the boat and doing laundry.
This last week waiting for the locks to open in St Jean sur Richelieu has gone by quickly.  At first we were bummed about the delay in our schedule, but actually it worked out for the best.  We thoroughly enjoyed our tour of Province de Quebec.

Boat Ger

The Capitainerie of Le Nautique told us that the 48 ft. Beneteau Express at out marina would also be locking through on Friday morning and we noticed that a 34 ft. sailboat with its mast down had tied up on the city wall at the entrance to the Chambly Canal.  During our afternoon bike ride Charlie stopped to inspect the lock.  He determined that indeed we would be able to lock through with the sailboat, but the "Big Boy" Beneteau would need the entire lock.  The race is on, we have been delayed long enough
.............. the lock opens at 7:30 am and we intend to be the first ones there!

Wednesday, May 16

Protesters

Poutine

Vieux Montreal covers and area of about 1/2 miles and is located between the St. Lawrence River and downtown Montreal.  Its lively neighborhoods are full of heritage, history and architecture.
In the City Center lies Basilique Notre-Dame de Montreal.  Founded in 1642, the faithful originally gathered in a modest wooden chapel, which by 1692 was replaced by a stone church.  Around 1800 many parishioners had to listen to mass from the forecourt since there was not enough room inside the church and construction began in 1824 for the Basilica that stands today.
What makes this church so special is not only its grand scale, but the interior decorations.  Inspired in great part by the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris, the ornate altarpiece sculptures and detailed stain glass windows are exquisite.  Masses and several types of concerts are held at the Basilica on a regular basis and Celine Dion's grandiose wedding was held here.
As we walked past Les Trois Palais de Justice (The Three Courthouses) we couldn't help but notice the small gathering of protesters (students against proposed university tuition hikes - who have been storming campus classrooms destroying property and threatening faculty).  Could they be related to our Occupy Wall Street crowd?  Probably not, although they both feel entitled to free education, housing, etc  ......... ever heard of the word work?

Basilique Notre-Dame de Montreal

Throughout our tour of the Province de Quebec we have noticed the popularity of a French Canadian dish called Poutine - French fries and fresh cheese curds, covered with brown gravy - it looks as disgusting as it sounds.  Kathy wouldn't try it even at McDonalds (which is one of the very few places with fountain Diet Coke in Quebec, a major issue for her).  The crepes de berries, on the other hand, were culinary delights.  On either count, Michelle Obama would be appalled.

Wednesday, May 15

Marche' Atwater

Marche' Atwater

As we are stuck only 40 miles from Montreal, the lure of the big city is irresistible.  One of the wonders of the city is the public markets.  We chose Marche' Atwater, one of the largest and oldest in the city dating back to 1933.  The Art Deco building contains butchers, fromageries (cheese shops), the Premier Maisson Bakery and Restaurant.  The out side stands hold many farmers stalls selling both local and imported produce and flowers (ever heard of mini sized Bok Choy?).  The whole place is an olfactory overload and simply smells great.  If you love food and flowers, as we do, this place is to die for.  Without much storage on the Baby Boat, we were forced to restrain ourselves.  This meant limited amounts of delicacies and no flowers.  It was painful!

Upon our departure from Montreal, we remembered why driving in a city during rush hour is not fun.